Right attitude, wrong target

I finally got around to reading the San Francisco Chronicle’s new food critic, Soleil Ho‘s, first batch of reviews which includes a take down of Chez Panisse. It’s entertaining because she’s clearly trying to make immediate noise by moving the focus from local classics. The only problem is that Chez Panisse is actually quite a value when compared to most tasting menus in the area, stays true to its vision, and the cafe works like few other restaurants: the service is fantastic and the culinary technique is spot on.

Meanwhile across the bay another member of the local culinary canon has been in decline. Substitute the name Zuni Cafe for Chez Panisse in that review to arrive at a more legitimate target. The service has clearly been slipping while the kitchen isn’t holding the same standards which is what you have a right to expect from a standard. So, yeah, take on the classics, but take on the right ones…


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