It’s fascinating to read about a DO that isn’t based on history. Jason Williams has a fun look at Cava in his Substack, Everyday Drinking, that looks at a secessionist group from big cava is faring. Cava is a contemporary marketing creation, so there doesn’t appear to be much allegiance to the concept. That’s unlike in mezcal where people feel like they own the word and entire concept of mezcal. While plenty of mezcal makers are heading for the exits and renaming themselves agave spirits, a profound tension remains about the cultural ownership of the concept in Mexico.
Oh those imaginary denominations!